July 26th, 2009
Tepthida Khmer: Fine Cambodian Cuisine - a review
by Jim Jeffers
Tepthida Khmer
115 Chelmsford Street
Lowell, MA 01851
The interior of Tepthida Khmer is elegant but, with a prominent bar and at least one massive flat-screen TV, there is a general comfortable feel to the place. The service was very good, with ample warnings and questions about how authentic we wanted our food. This is good and bad. Good, if this is your first trip to eat South-East Asian food, and are not initiated to the tastes of fish sauce / paste. Bad, if you are well aware, and just want to order your food. I am reminded of sending back the calamari at another Lowell jewell, Viet Thai, because it did not have the red pepper to which I am accustomed, asked, “do you want three star?” and I said, “Yes, three star!” It came back great and spicy. But, this is really material for another review.
We started with drinks: I with a chinese beer, Harbin; and Jean with a glass of Argentine Cab. My beer, was a typical asian lager, and Jean’s wine was fine, if a bit long in the tooth for being opened. The next thing to come out was the crispy rolls in vegetarian, which were really nice, with a light vinegary dippy sauce with peanuts floating in it. These rolls were perfectly cooked, not greasy, with a filling including mung bean threads and julienned vegetables. For our shared main dishes, we ordered the Cha Greung with chicken, and the Teuk Greung. Let’s start with the Teuk Greung. This dish consists of a bowl of ground fish, with lime juice, spices and green onions, and a plate of lightly steamed broccoli, cauliflower, raw eggplant, cucumbers, and cabbage. We are instructed to eat the salty-sour protein with the vegetables. This was very good, but not for the unadventurous. The Cha Greung with chicken was more familiar, being one of the many dishes in south-east asian cuisine employing red chillies and basil on meat. This was really great, the chicken was coated with spices, and green beans carried the bulk of the vegetable component; not too spicy but with enough kick to get me interested.
All and all our meal was excellent, and we plan on going back.